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Fixes · Nintendo Switch

Switch controller not working? The checklist.

Updated September 2026· 7 min read

Joy-Cons or a Pro Controller paired, but the buttons do nothing, or do the wrong thing? Go through this top to bottom, in order. Every step says what you should see and what to do if you don't. Don't skip ahead: nine times out of ten the problem is in the first five.

The 60-second version

If you only read one box, read this one.

  1. The Controller Gateway icon must be in the PC's tray, by the clock, and turn green when the phone connects.
  2. The Joy-Cons pair to your phone, never to the PC. If the PC has Bluetooth, turn it off or forget the Joy-Cons there.
  3. Press a button on each half. Nothing is sent until a controller makes its first input.
  4. Be on app version 2.4.1 or later. Older versions have no Joy-Con support at all.
  5. Toggle on = hold both halves upright as one controller. Toggle off = hold one half sideways.
Before you start

Which controller, held which way?

Half of all "it's not mapping" reports are really "I'm holding it one way and the app is set up for the other". Pick your situation, because the checks below refer back to it.

A · Two Joy-Cons, upright

Both halves as one controller

Held like a Switch with the halves pulled off. Left stick and D-pad from the left half, face buttons and right stick from the right. This is the default.

Nintendo A (right)Xbox B
Nintendo B (bottom)Xbox A
ZL / ZRLT / RT
SL / SRignored, as on Switch
CaptureGuide
B · One Joy-Con, sideways

Each half is its own mini pad

Held flat, SL and SR facing up, like Mario Kart co-op. Needs the toggle off. Each sideways pad counts as its own controller; free play and premium both relay up to four at once.

SL / SRLB / RB
Left half D-padA / B / X / Y
Stickrotated, left stick
L, ZL, R, ZRdo nothing, as on Switch
Minus / PlusStart
C · Pro Controller

A normal pad

Works like any other Bluetooth controller. The face buttons come through by position, so Nintendo A is Xbox B, exactly as Steam does it. There's no Joy-Con toggle for it.

D · Third-party Joy-Cons

Nyxi, Binbok, and friends

They aren't recognised as Joy-Cons, so the "one controller" toggle never appears and the halves can't merge. If they pair to the phone at all they work as two ordinary pads. That's a limit of the clones, not something we can fix.

Stage 1 · The PC

Is the PC even listening?

  1. The tray icon is there

    Look next to the clock on the Windows taskbar. Click the little up-arrow if it's hidden.

    You see
    A grey gamepad icon. Hover it and the tooltip says "Controller Gateway - waiting for phone".
    If not
    The PC app isn't running. Launch Controller Gateway from the Start menu. Not installed? Get it from the downloads page. Tick "Start with Windows" in the tray menu so this never happens again.
  2. The driver installed

    The PC app creates a virtual Xbox controller through a driver called ViGEmBus. The installer bundles it.

    You see
    No error on launch. The icon appears and stays.
    If not
    A dialog titled "Controller Gateway - driver missing" means the driver isn't there. Re-run the installer, which installs it silently, then start the app again. If you see "UDP port 47800 is already in use", another program has the port. Usually an old copy of the app. Reboot.
  3. Windows Firewall let it through

    The installer adds the rule itself. Some security suites remove it.

    You see
    The phone's Find PC lists your computer.
    If not
    Find PC says "No PC found". Check phone and PC are on the same Wi-Fi, not a guest network and not through a VPN. Then re-run the installer to restore the firewall rule, or allow ControllerGateway.exe inbound on UDP 47800 in your firewall.
  4. The icon goes green when you tap Start

    This is the single most useful check. It proves phone and PC are talking, before any controller is involved.

    You see
    The icon turns green. Hover it: "Phone 192.168.x.x - 0 controllers" is fine at this point.
    If not
    Still grey means packets aren't arriving. Go back to step 3. On the phone, an amber "no reply. Is the PC app running?" status means the same thing.
  5. Windows sees an Xbox controller

    Take the game out of the picture and ask Windows directly.

    You see
    Press Win + R, type joy.cpl, Enter. After you press a button on the controller, "Xbox 360 Controller for Windows" is listed and its Properties page lights up as you press buttons.
    If not
    Nothing listed means the controller isn't reaching the PC yet. Carry on to Stage 2, it's a phone-side problem. Listed but the wrong buttons light up? Jump to Stage 4.
Stage 2 · The phone

Is the controller actually paired to the phone?

  1. Paired to the phone, not the PC

    A Joy-Con remembers the last thing it paired with. If it ever met your PC's Bluetooth, or your Switch, it will sneak back to that.

    You see
    In the phone's Bluetooth settings, Joy-Con (L) and Joy-Con (R) both say Connected. A Pro Controller shows as Pro Controller.
    If not
    Hold the small round sync button on the rail of each half until the lights sweep, then pick it in the phone's Bluetooth list. If your PC has Bluetooth, turn it off or forget the Joy-Cons there, or they'll keep connecting to the PC instead. A powered-on Switch nearby will steal them too.
  2. The app lists it

    On the app's main screen, the Your controllers card shows what the phone can see.

    You see
    Situation A: one row, P1 · Joy-Con (L + R). Situation B: P1 · Joy-Con (L) and P2 · Joy-Con (R). Situation C: P1 · Pro Controller.
    If not
    "No controller yet, tap to pair one via Bluetooth" means Android doesn't see a gamepad. Back to step 6. Only one half listed? Press a button on the missing half (next step).
  3. You pressed a button

    A controller is only sent to the PC once it makes its first input. A freshly connected Joy-Con that nobody has touched looks dead. This catches a lot of people.

    You see
    After pressing a button or moving a stick on each half, the tray icon's badge shows 1 and the tooltip says "1 controller".
    If not
    Press something on the other half too. With two Joy-Cons, each half joins on its own first input.
  4. The status line is teal

    The line under the Start button tells you the truth about the link.

    You see
    "Live — sending to 192.168.x.x (60 pkt/s)" in teal. The packet rate ticks as you move a stick.
    If not
    Amber "no reply" means the PC app isn't answering: Stage 1. Red "Reconnecting" means Wi-Fi dropped. "Ready — tap Start" means you haven't tapped Start.
Stage 3 · Joy-Con specifics

Version, toggle, and grip

  1. App version 2.4.1 or later

    Joy-Con support arrived in 2.4.1 (September 2026). Before that, each half was treated as a separate, half-broken pad: the right half used up a paid slot and the left half's D-pad didn't work on most phones.

    You see
    Play Store → Controller Gateway → Update button absent, and the store page says 2.4.1 or higher.
    If not
    Update, then fully close and reopen the app. The PC installer has its own version number (2.2.0 at the time of writing); that's fine and unrelated.
  2. The "Use Joy-Cons as one controller" toggle matches your grip

    It's the last row of the Your controllers card, and it only appears while a real Joy-Con is connected. It's on by default.

    You see
    Situation A (upright, both halves): toggle on. Situation B (sideways, one half each): toggle off.
    If not
    Flip it. The halves drop and re-join on their next button press, so press something afterwards. Can't see the toggle at all? Then the phone doesn't see a genuine Nintendo Joy-Con (situation D, or not paired).
  3. You're holding it the way the toggle expects

    This is the one people argue with. The app can't tell how you're holding it, so the toggle decides.

    You see
    Toggle on, halves upright: left stick moves left, ZL/ZR pull as triggers, SL/SR do nothing. Toggle off, half sideways: the stick's "up" is towards SL/SR, SL/SR are the shoulder buttons, and L/ZL/R/ZR do nothing.
    If not
    Stick pushes the wrong way, or the shoulder buttons are dead? You're holding it for the other mode. Change the toggle or change your grip.
  4. Both sideways Joy-Cons are relayed

    Two Joy-Cons as two sideways pads is two controllers. Free play and premium both relay up to four at once, so each half gets its own player.

    You see
    Both rows show as live: P1 · Joy-Con (L) and P2 · Joy-Con (R).
    If not
    A row says "Not relayed"? Either your free play time is used (the banner on the main screen says so, and the one-time £2.99 unlock gives you unlimited play), or four controllers are already connected, so disconnect one. Already paid and still locked? Same Google account, then close and reopen the app.
Stage 4 · Wrong buttons, not no buttons

"It works, but A is B" and other mix-ups

  1. A and B are swapped: that's by design

    The PC sees a standard Xbox controller, and buttons go through by position. The bottom button is Xbox A whatever Nintendo printed on it. Steam and every other Joy-Con tool do the same, and it's what games expect.

    You see
    Nintendo A (right) acts as Xbox B; Nintendo B (bottom) acts as Xbox A. In-game prompts say "press A" and mean the bottom button.
    If not
    Prefer the printed letters to match? Controller Studio in the app remaps any button per controller.
  2. X and Y swapped on a non-Samsung phone

    A known quirk. On Pixel and most non-Samsung phones, Android's generic Nintendo layout puts X and Y the other way round from a Samsung phone when the halves are joined or you're using a Pro Controller. Sideways mode is already corrected.

    You see
    Top button acts as Xbox X, left button as Xbox Y, only on non-Samsung phones, only upright.
    If not
    A fix is in progress. Until then, Controller Studio swaps them back in two taps. If this one is biting you, email us so we can prioritise it.
  3. The Home button sends the phone home

    Android reserves the controller's Home button as the phone's Home key. Pressing it puts the app in the background and, on the Play Store version, Android stops delivering controller input to a background app.

    You see
    Press Home and the phone's launcher appears; the game stops responding until you return to the app.
    If not
    Don't use Home. Capture is the guide button, and it's relayed. To keep the app on screen with a black screen and the relay running, use Screen dim, then double-tap to wake.
  4. Steam is re-mapping it

    Steam sees an Xbox 360 controller, not a Switch pad, so any Switch Pro settings in Steam don't apply. But a per-game Steam Input layout can still override buttons.

    You see
    Steam → Settings → Controller shows an Xbox 360 controller. Outside Steam, and in joy.cpl, the buttons are right.
    If not
    If a Steam game misbehaves while joy.cpl is fine, open that game's controller layout in Steam and reset it to the default Xbox template.

Still stuck? Send us these six things

The fastest way to get this solved is the built-in diagnostics report. It tells us exactly what your controller sends and what the app did with it, which usually identifies the problem on the first reply.

  1. Open the app and scroll to the very bottom, where it shows the version number.
  2. Tap the version number seven times. It will confirm that diagnostics are on.
  3. Now press every button on your controller, and move both sticks.
  4. Tap the version number seven more times to open the report, then tap Copy.
  5. Paste it into an email to support@controller-gateway.com.

Nothing is uploaded and nothing leaves your phone on its own. The report is plain text, you can read every line of it before you send it, and it contains no personal information.

If you'd rather not use it, send us these instead: which situation from the top (A, B, C or D) and how you're holding it, your phone model and Android version, the app version, whether the toggle is on or off, what the PC tray tooltip says, and the PC log from the tray menu's Open log item.